I’ve fallen absolutely in love with New
Zealand. I just returned to Brisbane late last night after spending eight days
in a campervan, road tripping around the South Island with Kelsey. It was such
an adventure and I’m missing it already.
We left Melbourne last weekend on a red-eye
flight to Christchurch. When Kelsey and I boarded our plane, we thought we were
the luckiest people in the world – she had the window and I had the aisle and
there was no one between us. We laid back, ready to sleep as much as we could
on our three hour flight, but from the moment of take off, the baby behind us
started screaming bloody murder and didn’t stop until landing. We arrived to
Christchurch at 4:30am, exhausted, the van rental place not opening until 9am…
so we found ourselves some nice-looking benches, curled up, and slept like
homeless people in the airport. After four hours of tossing and turning, we
hopped on a bus to take us to Wicked.
I’ve always thought hippie campervans were
cool. Ever since I can remember, I’ve wanted to buy an old one, graffiti the
outside, and take it for a cross-country road trip. Wicked Campers hires out
crazy-looking vans all over Australia and New Zealand – our Wicked van for the
week was Norton. Norton, the “iconic two-seater,” wasn’t too flashy. He was a
little beat up with dents and scrapes, but we loved him all the same. After
all, he was the one keeping us warm at night. We loaded Norton with our bags
and some groceries and immediately hit the road.
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| Kelsey and Norton at Lake Tekapo |
To be honest, Christchurch wasn’t all that
exciting. A lot of the city had been destroyed by earthquakes years ago, and
that destructed feeling was still present. Our plan was to leave Christchurch
and do a week-long loop around the South Island, hitting up Lake Tekapo, Mount
Cook, Milford Sound, Queenstown, Wanaka, and the glaciers on the West Coast.
But one of the best things about our week was that New Zealand had different
plans for us. On Norton’s dashboard, there was a bumper sticker that read,
“Life is what happens when you’re busy making other plans,” and a prior Wicked
renter had added “Don’t make plans!” We learned last week that that’s the best
way to go.
With Kelsey driving the first leg of our
root, I dozed off. When I woke up, I felt like I’d died and gone to heaven. We
were surrounded by mountains, purple and snow-capped, green fields filled with
sheep. We reached Lake Tekapo and took a dip in the bluest water I have ever
seen. It’s hard to put into words what it was like. The only one I can think of
is “unreal.”
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| Heaven |
From there, we headed to Mount Cook, where
we planned to camp and hike in the morning. When we pulled into the campsite,
we began to doubt ourselves for the first time. Everyone at the campsite was
decked out in long pants, hiking boots, down coats, gloves and hats. Our
warmest layers were summer raincoats and leggings that barely covered our
ankles. We bundled up in as many clothes as we could find, and drifted off to
sleep. And in the morning we woke up to rain… the question was, do we hike
Mount Cook, or move along with the journey ahead?
My dad had just left New Zealand when we
arrived. He had planned a similar route on a motorcycle, but his trip didn’t go
as expected. From Christmas day through New Years, the temperature had dropped
and it rained every day. My dad ended up cutting his trip short and flying back
to Sydney to spend a few days before going home. Kelsey and I didn’t want that
to happen to us. We didn’t want to come all the way to New Zealand to skip out
on everything we’d planned. And after all, we weren’t on motorcycles – we had
Norton to keep us dry and warm and out of the elements. So we hiked anyway.
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| Hiking Mount Cook |
Big mistake. It was freezing. It was
raining hard. Our “raincoats” soaked all the way through and we got back to
Norton completely drenched with numb hands and feet. We didn’t think about the
fact that when you’re living in a van, there’s no clothesline or dryer for your
wet clothes. We found a place to take a five-minute warm shower for $2 and used hand dryers to dry as much of our clothes as we could. We still ended up
driving around for a couple days with wet clothes hanging all over the van, and
it started to stink really badly. Not only that, but they were our warmest
layers. I started to get stressed I wouldn’t be dry or warm for the whole week.
We camped at Lake Gun, and drove to Milford
Sound in the morning for a cruise. I’d heard that it rains about 360 days a
year at Milford Sound – but we got extra lucky and sat on the boat with
sunshine. I guess the universe started to feel sorry for us and wanted our
clothes to get a little dryer. The cruise ended up being amazing. We cruised
through mountains, waterfalls flowing from high above, seals bathing on rocks,
free coffee on board. We got back to Norton feeling pretty good, only to find
that we’d left the headlights on and the battery had gone flat. Luckily, some
cute French Canadian guys helped jump start us and we were on our way again.
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| Milford Sound |
We drove straight on through to Queenstown.
The adventure capital of the world. I had heard so many great things about it
and it was every bit as great as I’d expected. We ended up getting sucked in so
hard that we ditched the rest of our plans and just stayed. Part of that was
because Queenstown’s weather turned into warmth and sunshine, and we couldn’t
stand the idea of moving on to the West Coast where we were bound to have rain.
Kelsey and I found an awesome campsite
right outside of the city – Twelve Mile Delta. It was right on the lake, and we
brought our soap and took freezing cold baths in the lake and warmed up in the
sun. We spent a couple nights there, and booked a hostel for one night in the
city – a chance to do some laundry, take a real shower, and sleep in an actual
bed. I have to admit, even just being one night away, we missed Norton a little
bit.
I think we definitely made the most of our
few days in Queenstown. On Day 1, we headed to AJ Hackett to look at bungy
jumping again – after going in Cairns, we knew we had to take advantage of our
lifelong discounts at any AJ Hackett in the world. We booked a tandem canyon
swing and it was amazing. When I studied in Florence, I went canyon jumping in
Switzerland – the two crazy Swiss guys who took my group told us there were
only two places in the world where you can jump from a platform and swing into a
canyon: Switzerland and New Zealand. I had one down, so naturally I had to go
in Queenstown. Kelsey and I were strapped together in harnesses, suspended 150
meters above a canyon, and dropped, adrenaline coursing through our veins.
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| Nevis canyon swing |
As if that weren’t enough of a rush, we
went canyoning the next day. A group of eight of us went with our cute British
tour guide Rauel – bundled in wetsuits, swimming socks, shoes, jackets, hats
and helmets. We climbed to the top of the canyon and ziplined over it, abseiled
down into it, climbed back up and cliff jumped into the freezing cold water,
swimming, slipping down rockslides, and having an absolute blast. Everyone had
a name on his or her helmet. I was Bubbles and Kelsey was Ke$ha. I felt so
silly when Rauel would pull me around by my harness and call me Bubbles.
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| Canyoning crew |
For the rest of our time in Queenstown, we
chilled. We got clean. We got warm. We drove to Glenorchy, only 20 minutes
away, and had coffee at a café overlooking the mountains. We wandered around
Queenstown, which was adorable, with so many little shops. We ate world famous
Fergburgers, the biggest burgers I’ve ever seen. We stumbled across a weekend
market down by the waterfront, laid in the grass and listened to live music,
getting a little sun after days of rain. We threw away our plans and could not
have been more content.
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| So in love with Queenstown |
The last day and a half of our trip was
spent driving through pouring rain back to Christchurch. Although the rain wasn’t
all too fun, New Zealand still looked absolutely beautiful. Kelsey and I made
it to the airport and boarded our flight home to Brisbane last night – all the
while scheming our next trip…